News

Oscar de la Renta

After the buzz surrounding last season's Galliano interlude—did he have a hand in the collection, or did he not?—the atmosphere chez Oscar de la Renta this evening was comparatively subdued. But cue a George Harrison medley on the sound system and Karlie Kloss gliding onto the runway in a double-face gilet, cardigan, and pencil skirt, and the crowd perked right up. To start, there were classic day clothes in navy and white, with little adjustments here and there to bring proportions up-to-date. All looked well judged, though the chicest of the bunch was a gathered lapel jacket and matching...

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Elie Tahari

Elie Tahari is celebrating forty years at the helm of his eponymous label, and he's clearly gunning for forty more. Spring was about the future, with Tahari incorporating high-tech materials into his designs and injecting everything with a sporty, modern ease. The seams on the menswear were closed with silicone tape, and laser-cut perforations abounded on the women's looks. Of course, you have to look back to look forward, so Tahari updated a few of his iconic silhouettes—a swing coat, a jumpsuit—and peppered those pieces throughout the collection. Those Edition 1974 items weren't very...

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MM6 Maison Martin Margiela

Watching Maison Martin Margiela's MM6 show was like taking a deep breath of icy air. At first glance, Spring's clean lines, refreshing colors, and straight silhouettes looked the epitome of simple—and they were. But many of the pieces were terribly clever in that they completely tricked the eye. Take the round handbags, for instance: They were smartly sculpted to look as though they were consistently slouching. Or the finale look: You think that's a tuxedo paired with that bibbed blouse? Wrong. It's a glorified tracksuit. Transparency was an MM6 focus this season—something we probably...

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Narciso Rodriguez

The first thing you noticed was the new proportion. Narciso Rodriguez brought hems up to the mid-thigh, sometimes higher, at his terrific show tonight with something he's dubbed the "half-skirt." A hybrid, its front panel wraps only partway around, revealing the neat (and, let's call them what they are, modesty-protecting) shorts underneath. Problem solving isn't sexy, but it's a key to Rodriguez's success; he never forgets to balance desire with practicality. There was more going on here, though, than minis. While the overall silhouette was quite flat and simple, one by one the pieces were put together...

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ICB

Youthful. Bright. Colorful. Happy. Those are all words Prabal Gurung used to describe his Spring collection for the contemporary label ICB, and he wasn't wrong. The starting point was the fluorescent light sculptures of the artist Dan Flavin. Gurung aimed to capture the color spectrum by turning out a rainbow of sculpted-shoulder, boxy dresses and separates that looked darn easy—and fun—to wear. The show began with a series of stark white looks, which had the feeling of tennis gear without being too literal. The final all-white number, a cocoon dress, hinted at what was to come with...

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Michael Kors

When he's good, he's good. Michael Kors sent out a beautiful collection of real-world clothes today that had women in the crowd making mental shopping lists. "A softer attitude…the juxtaposition of sportif and romantic…sharply tailored meets soft and fluid," were some of his notes. The clothes had echoes of the forties (think Kate Hepburn in a trench and full trousers) and the seventies (Meryl Streep circa Kramer vs. Kramer), but this is one case where looking back didn't produce retro results. Kors opened with breezy white linen daywear for the girls and the boys. For the clients...

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Bibhu Mohapatra

For Spring, Bibhu Mohapatra was inspired by his friend Wendy Whelan's transformation into a modern dancer. (The longtime principal dancer at New York City Ballet debuted Restless Creature, a four-part performance, at Jacob's Pillow in August.) "She found herself again," said the designer at his year-old Garment District studio days before the show. "I liked that idea of a new beginning." While Mohapatra didn't start from scratch with his latest offering, it did feel new: more confident and concise than past efforts. A digitized print depicting oversize palash—a fire-red tree flower found...

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Brandon Sun

"Im a ready-to-wear designer, too," said Brandon Sun at his Lincoln Center presentation. Sun, who ran the fur programs at J. Mendel and Oscar de la Renta before launching his own line in 2011, wanted to show off his other talents this season, so he only used the soft stuff sparingly in his collection. Instead, he focused on color and shape, with feudal Japan's female samurais, called onna-bugeisha, as muse. The reference was subtle, but it was visible in the Japanese robe silhouettes. For instance, a collarless silk blush pink vest was worn over a straight, below-the-calf dress in the same color,...

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Nanette Lepore

"This is the first time in several seasons that I'm not working with super tetchy fabrics," said Nanette Lepore backstage before her Spring show. Like many designers this week, Lepore found a new freshness in softer, easy—almost deflated—silhouettes and worked with more natural materials that gave the clothes movement. "It's all about romanticism but done in a modern way," she said. The finale series of long, blush-colored embroidered dresses best encapsulated this message. Meanwhile, the real standouts here were several wispy, bias-cut silk slips featuring slim, fluttering peplums...

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Catherine Malandrino

A giant cruise ship sailed into the slot behind Pier 92's windows today and served as the backdrop for Catherine Malandrino's presentation. It wasn't planned, but it might as well have been, as only an actual yacht in Saint-Tropez would have been a more appropriate setting to debut these Spring wares. This season, Malandrino was inspired by the seaside escape's famed regatta, Les Voiles de Saint-Tropez, which she'll be attending in September. "It's about performance, but it's also about poetry," she said, referring to both the race and her new lineup. Literal expressions of an inspiration are rarely...

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